CNST 213 Evolution of Traditional Chinese Apparel

The Evolution of Traditional Chinese Apparel

Although a polarity exists between Han and Manchu populations, Chinese costume actually reflects a long and complex interaction between them. The wardrobe for the upper class Manchu and Han Chinese populations consisted of a rather small range of garment types. Initially, there was an obvious attempt to separate the two populations through their clothing. However, an examination of construction details and decoration indicates that they share a common background and that extensive intermixing of both technical and decorative features occurred. For example,

The curved front over-flap fastening to the right, with loops and toggles in the Manchu tradition, was generally adopted for Han Chinese clothing by the 19th century.
Similarly, the use of contrasting borders on all Manchu garments after the mid-18th century reveals Chinese fashion, as does the use of wide sleeves ending with turned-back inner facings, which were preferred for Manchu women's non-official garments in the 19th century. Both of these adaptations were undoubtedly based on Han Chinese styles.

In general, distinctions between Manchu and Han Chinese garment styles were a matter of profile and construction. Male garments were largely the same for both populations. Chinese women wore shorter tunics (calf length) and wore trousers underneath. A pleated skirt would be worn over the trousers for formal occasions. Manchu women did not wear trousers. Chinese women bound their feet; Manchu women did not.

References
Scott, A. C. (1958). Chinese Costume in Transition. Singapore: Donald Moore
Steele, V. (1982). Fashion in China. Dress, 8-15.
Vollmer, J. E. (1983). Decoding Dragons: Status garments in Ch'ing Dynasty China. Eugene, OR:
University of Oregon Museum of Art.

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