Russian Influences on
Three influences on haute couture:
fauvism, cubism, and other art
renewed interest in slavic/
traditional Russian folk art
Three important Russian-born designers:
theater - During
the years prior to World War 1, the theater was a strong influence on fashion.
The theater was also closely linked with the art world. Many artists,
including Picaso and Matisse, also designed costumes and sets for Diaghilev's
Ballets Russes -
In 1909 the Ballets Russes, directed by Serge Diaghilev was established
Cleopatre (Cleopatra) was the first ballet produced in
Paris by the Ballets Russes. Exciting costumes with vibrant color schemes
were used and this became the hallmark of Diaghilev's shows. Scheherazade
was performed a year later and had an instantaneous effect on haute couture.
publishing trade - fashion
Few periodicals published
prior to 1912 were fashion-related. Two periodicals devoted to couture
began publication in 1912; the Gazette du Bon Ton and the
des Dames et Des Modes. Harper's Bazar became fashion
oriented in 1913. The increasing number of fashion periodicals corresponds
with the increasing number of couture houses.
Each of the following designers
emigrated from Russia to Paris between 1905-1911. They brought with
them a love for color, their Slavic cultural and artistic heritage, and
an interest in costume/textile design.
Russian-born designer's influence on fashion began when he was hired by
Paul Poiret. By 1914, Erte' was publishing his designs in Harper's
Bazar. This was the principal showplace for his designs, eventually
he began doing covers for the magazine. Erte' also designed for the theater
(the Ziegfeld Follies and the Follies Bergere), the American film
industry, and American retailers B. Altman and Henri Bendel. His
often exotic and erotic designs are characterized by his use of color and
details (buttons, tabs, pockets, buckles, etc.). Other characteristics
of his designs include the use of high collars, handkerchief hemlines and
dropped waists. His influence on fashion declined after W.W.I.
Bakst - Leon
Bakst contributed to decorative art and haute couture through his theater
designs. He designed dramatic, vibrantly colored costumes and stage
sets. His designs were often inspired by Grecian and oriental themes.
was another Russian artist who had a great influence on women's fashions.
Color was the most important element in her work. She integrated
color with strong geometric shapes. Delaunay was an artist who moved
on to design textiles and apparel.
Chanelís Slavic period
Coco Chanelís fashion collections drew extensively upon Russian influences
during the early 1920s. Her designs included loose shift dresses,
tunics, crepe de chine blouses, waistcoats, and evening clothes made in
dark or neutral colors and adorned with exquisite, vividly colored embroidery
in native Russian peasant designs. She introduced a version of the
roubachka, the long-belted blouse worn by Russian peasant
women, but made in silk crepe de chine for her couture clientele.
D. (1979). The Russian influence on fashion 1909-1925. Dress,
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