CNST 213 Russian Influences on Fashion

Russian Influences on Fashion,
1909-1925

Three influences on haute couture:

art world

fauvism, cubism, and other art movements
renewed interest in slavic/ traditional Russian folk art

theater - During the years prior to World War 1, the theater was a strong influence on fashion. The theater was also closely linked with the art world. Many artists, including Picaso and Matisse, also designed costumes and sets for Diaghilev's ballets.

Ballets Russes - In 1909 the Ballets Russes, directed by Serge Diaghilev was established in Paris. Cleopatre (Cleopatra) was the first ballet produced in Paris by the Ballets Russes. Exciting costumes with vibrant color schemes were used and this became the hallmark of Diaghilev's shows. Scheherazade was performed a year later and had an instantaneous effect on haute couture.

publishing trade - fashion periodicals

Few periodicals published prior to 1912 were fashion-related. Two periodicals devoted to couture began publication in 1912; the Gazette du Bon Ton and the Journal des Dames et Des Modes. Harper's Bazar became fashion oriented in 1913. The increasing number of fashion periodicals corresponds with the increasing number of couture houses.

Three important Russian-born designers:
Each of the following designers emigrated from Russia to Paris between 1905-1911. They brought with them a love for color, their Slavic cultural and artistic heritage, and an interest in costume/textile design.

Erte’ This Russian-born designer's influence on fashion began when he was hired by Paul Poiret. By 1914, Erte' was publishing his designs in Harper's Bazar. This was the principal showplace for his designs, eventually he began doing covers for the magazine. Erte' also designed for the theater (the Ziegfeld Follies and the Follies Bergere), the American film industry, and American retailers B. Altman and Henri Bendel. His often exotic and erotic designs are characterized by his use of color and details (buttons, tabs, pockets, buckles, etc.). Other characteristics of his designs include the use of high collars, handkerchief hemlines and dropped waists. His influence on fashion declined after W.W.I.

Bakst - Leon Bakst contributed to decorative art and haute couture through his theater designs. He designed dramatic, vibrantly colored costumes and stage sets. His designs were often inspired by Grecian and oriental themes.

Sonia Delaunay was another Russian artist who had a great influence on women's fashions. Color was the most important element in her work. She integrated color with strong geometric shapes. Delaunay was an artist who moved on to design textiles and apparel.

Delaunay bio

Chanel’s Slavic period 1920-24
Coco Chanel’s fashion collections drew extensively upon Russian influences during the early 1920s. Her designs included loose shift dresses, tunics, crepe de chine blouses, waistcoats, and evening clothes made in dark or neutral colors and adorned with exquisite, vividly colored embroidery in native Russian peasant designs. She introduced a version of the Russian roubachka, the long-belted blouse worn by Russian peasant women, but made in silk crepe de chine for her couture clientele.

References
Behling, D. (1979). The Russian influence on fashion 1909-1925. Dress, 5, 1-13.

Table of Contents / Previous Topic / Next Topic / Syllabus

Comments or Questions about the course?
Email Dr. Orzada