• Adrian -   Gilbert Adrian  was an american designer.  He designed costumes for MGM Studios from 1925-1939.  In 1941 he opened his own firm, Adrian Ltd. for couture and top of the line ready to wear.  Closed this salon in 1948.  His "look" was sleek and modern.  His silhouette is recognized by the use of wide, padded shoulders which tapered to a small waist.  He was a master of intricate cut.  The Historic Costume and Textiles Collection at the University of Delaware has several of Adrian's garments.

• Balenciaga
• Cristobal Balenciaga was a Spanish-born designer who practiced in Paris from 1937-1968.  He was a master tailor.   He manipulated proportion with his designs to create the illusion of a long, lithe body.  For example, he used thruse back collars to visually lengthen the neck, bracelet length sleeves and bolerolike jackets furthered this look.  Canted the waistline (tilted higher in front and lower in back) giving the illusion of a smaller waist.  He used somber colors as well as brights.  the volume in his dressed was generated by the motion of the wearer, rather than stiff layers of netting or crinoline.  He used structural seaming and the inherrent qualities of the fabric to acheive the desired effect.
• More information on Balenciaga can be found on the Spanish Influences on Fashion page.

 
• Chanel
• Coco Chanel closed her House in 1938 because of the World War II, but re-opened in 1954. Known for her suits, costume jewelry, and quilted handbags.
• Dior
• Christian Dior was the innovator of the "New Look".  The New Look featured a rounded shoulder and small waist, a very long skirt length with either a very full skirt or a narrow, pencil skirt.  The curve of the hip was stressed.  Dior named each collection or "line" as well as each dress or ensemble within the line.

• Charles James
• an American designer.  Was considered to be one of the most original American designers.  Known for his lavish ball gowns and architectural shapes .

• Mainbocher - Main Rousseau Bocher was the first American designer to succeed in Paris.  He worked as a fashion illustratorfor Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, was editor of French Vogue.  Then in 1929 opened his own Paris salon.   He closed this house when WWII broke out, moving to New York opening another in 1939.  He was known for his elegant evening clothes and was greatly influenced by Vionnet and mastered the bias cut himself. 

• Claire McCardell - credited with originating the "American Look." Her design philosophy was that clothes should be clean-lined, functional, comfortable, and appropriate for the occasion.  Her innovative designs include the "Monastic" a waistless, bias-cut, dartless dress which could be worn loose or belted and the diaper bathing suit.

• Schiaparelli 
• Elsa Schiaparelli had a flare for the theatrical.  She used many surrealistic designs and often worked with Salvador Dali who designed fabrics for her.  She is known for her use of bright colors such as "Shocking pink" and details to emphasize her 'theme'.  These details included such things as embroidery, buttons, and her accessories, especially her hats.  Examples of the themes she used include the Zodiac, the Circus, and Music.  She was the first couturiere to use zippers.

• Vionnet
• Madeleine Vionnet is best know for the bias cut.  She was the most sought after designer of the 1930s.  Retired in 1939.

Last Updated:  August 5, 1999
   Copyright Belinda T. Orzada, University of Delaware, 1998.  All rights reserved.